nord lead 2 power cord, flight cases, and electrocution!

trendysetghost

i purchased this nord lead 2 probably 6 years ago along with a nice flight case for it to protect it on the road. I immediately saw a problem with the permanently attached power cable and putting the synth in the case, but decided to worry about it later.

Well it's later (a lot later than i expected) and the power cable now looks like some toothless rodent has been gumming on it for a while. No bare wires, but it's just all twisted up and starting to wear through pretty badly where the power cable enters the chasis. You know, right where the entire weight of the synth bares down on it when carrying the case by the handle. At last night's show i was shocked pretty badly while holding a mic in one hand and adjusting the mod wheel with the other. You would expect that the mic would have been the culprit but the jolt came right up my arm from the nord, and i'm looking into options for replacing this cord.

Has anyone had any luck installing a detachable power cable into the nord lead 2? I had a nord lead 3 for about 4 days (before sending it back) and i'm not sure if i'd really want that style power cable. Seemed even cheaper... kind of reminded me of a boom box i had about 20 years ago. I've been considering trying to install a standard computer style power cable/jack (and maybe even grounding it!) , but thought i'd stop in here for some input before getting into it.

tim.

Wout Blommers · Posted: Mon May 25, 2009 3:46 pm Post subject:

trendysetghost

You opened the hood already?
The power cable uses a special type of connector and I still haven't figured out how to replace the wires Smile

When drilling out the new hole beware of the motherboard. Maybe it's best to remove it?

Wout

Oli · Posted: Thu May 28, 2009 9:16 am Post subject:

Hi,

I haven't done this to a synth before, but have a few thoughts to share.

Definitely remove PCBs and other electrical fittings before doing the metal work.

You can get cutting clamps designed to cut just the right shape of hole for common sockets. Otherwise, drills and nibbler tools are good too.

The synth hasn't been designed with a grounded chassis in mind, but I'm not aware of there being any issue with grounding it. I think it would be worthwhile in your case. I would make a note on the chassis exterior that it is no longer double insulated. This may be a problem in some electrical distribution systems which don't provide a safety earth. Just be aware of that. You probably could still maintain double insulation of the active and neutral lines anyway.

The PCB connector should not be a problem. You could desolder it, or you could just cut the cord that attaches to the PCB connector, leaving a useable length of wire to attach the internal connections of your power inlet socket.

I would recommend using an IEC chassis socket, with integral fuse holder and line filter. The fuse holder in not likely to be critical here, but having a line filter at the chassis entry point, and a grounded chassis are good EMC practice.

Hope that helps. Good luck.

trendysetghost · Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 9:56 am Post subject:

thanks for the tips, but i just received my 'back up' lead 2 so now i can take my time finding someone 'qualified' to fix my old one.

Oli · Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 6:51 pm Post subject:

Just another thought; make sure both halves of the chassis are well connected to the safety earth.

trendysetghost · Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 7:39 pm Post subject:

what is the saftey earth? there doesn't seem to be anything that both halves of the chasis touch except eachother.

I'm thinking now that the cord is worn out right where it enters the back. I was just going to shorten it and reattach it, but I'm not sure how to remove the weird gasket/nut/washer thing that holds it in place at the entry point of the chasis. and then is there a special crimping tool to clasp the wires in place on the motherboard connector? or do I just have to find very very skinny plyers?

Oli · Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 7:32 am Post subject:

Hi,

A safety earth is present in three wire single phase mains electrical systems. Not all countries use a safety earth. The safety earth provides a conduction path to ground, and is part of an electrical safety system. If you don't have a safety earth available, make sure you maintain double insulation.

When I suggested earthing both halves of the chassis, I was thinking of drilling holes in both chassis halves, and bolting and earth strap between them. Don't worry about this if you don't have a safety earth.

You may like to consider a residual current device/safety switch for the mains supply of your studio. This won't help you on the road, of course, but it may provide some protection some of the time.